Avatar Grove: Old-Growth Forest
May 3, 2024
The Avatar Grove is an old-growth forest located in the southern part of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, just north of Port Renfrew. The Ancient Forest Alliance has worked hard to maintain the trails, but past winter storms have caused damage and both the Upper Grove and Lower Grove are technically closed. The grove is located a few miles north of Port Renfrew along a rough logging road.
While slowly driving along this road en route to the trail head, a local couple who had just come from the trails waved us down and mentioned that they were closed. “If you’re adventurous though,” the man told us, “it is beautiful.” Watching their car disappear in a cloud of dust from our rearview mirror, we continued northward while avoiding as many of the potholes and washed-out sections of the road as we could—playing our own real-life Mario Cart.
“Avatar Grove” is a popular nickname for the Pacheedaht name of “T’l’oqwxwat” and is in the unceded territory of the Pacheedaht First Nation. It was discovered in 2009 by a group of local environmental activists, who later started the Ancient Forest Alliance. The grove contains numerous large Western Red Cedars and Douglas Firs—a stellar example of mature coastal rainforest. Avatar Grove was given protected status in 2012 and is now closed to logging.
The last landmark before arriving at the trail head is the narrow, wooden Gordon River bridge. There, someone making a stand, had spray painted “Water is Life” on the bridge’s low railing—only noticeable because we had stopped to take in the view from the bridge. Then, up some steep inclines and a couple switchbacks, we found access points for both groves on either side of the road.
It’s one thing to see the massive trees in an old-growth forest as you drive along the gravel roads, peering in from the car window. It’s another thing to understand the significance, history, and impact of the trees by entering the grove and standing under their canopy. Old-growth forests have gaps in their canopies which lets more light in to the forest floor creating a much more luxuriant understory while second-growth forests tend to have a closed canopy and shade much of the light for other plants. The forest floor here was carpeted with ferns and plants as far as you could see.
Though their exact ages are unknown, the oldest trees here are estimated to be around 1,000 years old. Walking through the forest you can take in the sights, smells, and sounds that nature has to offer. At times, however, the silence can be deafening, as the the trees simply soared above us. One highlight is Canada’s Gnarliest Tree, a huge Western Red Cedar with numerous gnarly burl growths on its lower trunk.
In late 2009, the Ancient Forest Alliance identified the grove and began a two-year campaign to protect the trees. The campaign urged folks to consider that the grove had more value if it wasn’t logged. If left standing, the grove had the potential to attract tourists to Port Renfrew, thereby stimulating the local economy.
That same year, James Cameron’s epic science fiction film, Avatar, pits the environment against unsustainable human greed. The themes of eco-consciousness and activism are suitable for this destination. The name was a clever move to capitalize on the popularity of the film, as I’m sure the naming of the Gnarliest Tree was. Even the forest scenes with its giant ferns and big trees resembled some of British Columbia’s old-growth forests.
When in the area, it is a must-see for anyone’s list. But be sure to rent a Jeep or four-wheel drive vehicle that can maneuver the roads.
“To see in color is a delight for the eye but to see in black and white is a delight for the soul.”
– Andri Cauldwell
Images by Tadson Bussey, taken during a Position on Retreat artist residency program located on Vancouver Island in Lake Cowichan, British Columbia.
